AI-generated fashion models could bring more diversity

CHICAGO (AP):

London-based model Alexsandrah has a twin, but her counterpart is made of pixels instead of flesh and blood.

The virtual twin was generated by artificial intelligence (AI) and has already appeared as a stand-in for the real-life Alexsandrah in a photoshoot. Alexsandrah, who goes by her first name professionally, receives credit and compensation whenever the AI version of herself gets used -- just like a human model.

Alexsandrah said that she and her alter-ego mirror each other "even down to the baby hairs". It is yet another example of how AI is transforming creative industries -- and the way humans may or may not be compensated. Proponents say the growing use of AI in fashion modelling showcases diversity in all shapes and sizes, allowing consumers to make more tailored purchase decisions that in turn reduces fashion waste from product returns. Digital modelling also saves money for companies and creates opportunities for people who want to work with the technology.

But critics raise concerns that digital models may push human models -- and other professionals like make-up artists and photographers -- out of a job.

"Fashion is exclusive, with limited opportunities for people of colour to break in," said Sara Ziff, a former fashion model and founder of the Model Alliance, a non-profit aiming to advance workers' rights in the fashion industry.

"I think the use of AI to distort racial representation and marginalise actual models of colour reveals this troubling gap between the industry's declared intentions and their real actions."

Women of colour in particular have long faced higher barriers to entry in modelling and AI could upend some of the gains they've made. Data suggests that women are more likely to work in occupations in which the technology could be applied, and are more at risk of displacement than men.

In March 2023, iconic denim brand Levi Strauss & Co announced that it would be testing AI-generated models produced by Amsterdam-based company Lalaland.ai to add a wider range of body types and underrepresented demographics on its website. But after receiving widespread backlash, the company clarified that it was not pulling back on its plans for live photoshoots, the use of live models or its commitment to working with diverse models.

"We do not see this (AI) pilot as a means to advance diversity or as a substitute for the real action that must be taken to deliver on our diversity, equity and inclusion goals and it should not have been portrayed as such," it said in its statement at the time. The company last month said that it has no plans to scale the AI programme.

Spokespeople for Nieman Marcus, H&M, Walmart and Macy's said their respective companies do not use AI models, although Walmart clarified that "suppliers may have a different approach to photography they provide for their products but we don't have that information".

Nonetheless, companies that generate AI models are finding a demand for the technology, including Lalaland.ai, which was co-founded by Michael Musandu after he was feeling frustrated by the absence of clothing models who looked like him.

"One model does not represent everyone that's actually shopping and buying a product," he said. "As a person of colour, I felt this painfully myself."

Musandu says his product is meant to supplement traditional photoshoots, not replace them. Instead of seeing one model, shoppers could see nine to 12 models using different size filters, which would enrich their shopping experience and help reduce product returns and fashion waste.

The technology is actually creating new jobs, since Lalaland.ai pays humans to train its algorithms, Musandu said.

And if brands "are serious about inclusion efforts, they will continue to hire these models of colour," he added.

London-based model Alexsandrah, who is black, says her digital counterpart has helped her distinguish herself in the fashion industry. In fact, the real-life Alexsandrah has even stood in for a black computer-generated model named Shudu, created by Cameron Wilson, a former fashion photographer turned CEO of The Diigitals, a UK-based digital modeling agency.