Farmers reveal Blue Mountain Coffee’s secret ingredients ... Love, sweat and passion

Today marks Blue Mountain Coffee Day, a celebration of one of Jamaica's most prized exports. Yet, while the product is renowned globally, few understand the immense effort and dedication it takes to produce.

For farmers like 56-year-old Miriam McDonald, who has spent more than 30 years cultivating coffee in the rugged hills of Portland, coffee farming is both a passion and a struggle.

"Farming is my life, and coffee is my pride and joy," McDonald told THE STAR, the delight unmistakable in her voice. But behind her vibrant tone lies a reality of backbreaking work and persistent challenges from unpredictable weather to poor infrastructure and steep operational costs.

"The road is very bad, and sometimes when rain falls, we can't get to the farm. Then, because of the disasters, we operate at a loss," she explained. High transportation costs further cut into her earnings. "Every day, from where I am to town, I have to pay $8,000 to $10,000 for transportation, depending on the person. When you add it all up, we farmers are on the down scale, so we're losing," she added.

This year has been particularly tough. McDonald was only able to reap five boxes of coffee last week because of bad weather. A box of coffee is sold for $10,000. She had to pay $10,000 for transportation, along with $4,000 per day for each of her three labourers. Additional workers hired for other tasks further reduce her profit.

For 39-year-old Sheldon Gillespie, who has been farming in Portland for 14 years, the numbers are equally discouraging.

"When you check it, we really nah mek no money," he admitted. Still, he feels obligated to continue. "When it's harvesting time, sometimes we have rain. So, if them say four grand, we have to give them it because we don't want the beans to drop off the tree," Gillespie explained.

Fertiliser costs add to the burden. Gillespie's four-acre farm requires 13 bags of fertiliser, each costing $11,800--a total of over $150,000. Ideally, he would want to fertilise twice per year for optimal yield, but he can only afford to do it once.

Then there is the issue of poor roads. "When the crops are ready, mi haffi body carry the coffee--carry it on my head down the hill," Gillespie said. The lack of access limits how much farmers can grow and harvest.

"Most of the farmers are foot walkers. So, if they would normally plant 10 acres, they have to plant three," he explained.

Despite these challenges, neither McDonald nor Gillespie would consider abandoning their trade.

"If I had a man I loved like farming, he would be well loved," McDonald joked, laughing heartily. "Nothing could make me give up farming." Both farmers take immense pride in the quality of their coffee.

"I hope when people drink the coffee and taste the quality, they think about us farmers and the struggles we go through to produce such a nice blend," McDonald said. Gillespie shared her sentiment.

"When yuh drink Blue Mountain Coffee, yuh taste quality. That is because the farmers mek sure yuh get the best. We care about the quality, not just money."

While their love for farming keeps them going, both agree that improvements are urgently needed.

"First thing we need is the road because if it nuh fix, we're constantly going to be losing," McDonald said. Gillespie added, "We cah afford fi fertilise the coffee like we want to, so something need fi do bout that quick quick. If them fix that and gi wi some roads, oh gosh man, things would be much better."